Le Pergole Torte: World-Class Glass

MONTEVERTINE 2009
Le Pergole Torte: Greatness Radiates

“Le Pergole Torte isn’t a great Tuscan or Italian wine. It is simply one of the world’s elite wines. Viscerally thrilling…” — Wine Advocate

VERY LIMITED QUANTITIES.

Last summer, in a typically slow time of the year, we experienced a tremendous “feeding frenzy” for Montevertine’s legendary wine “Le Pergole Torte.” Literally every last bottle in our store, and in the entire cole pergole torte 2009untry, sold out in a matter of days. Every case of ’07, ’06, and ’04 “Le Pergole Torte” evaporated largely due to a retrospective tasting which merely demonstrated what we have always known: that Martino Manetti’s “Le Pergole Torte” sits on a pedestal with a handful of other (mostly higher priced) monumental wines of Tuscany.

While many of its Super Tuscan counterparts impress with their rich, dark, velvety fruit and lavish use of expensive new French oak barrels, Le Pergole Torte sits in stark contrast relying solely on it’s particular high altitude vineyards, unique micro-climate in Radda, its poor stoney soils, and minimal intervention in the cellar. Whenever any noteworthy wine professional is asked for their favorite wine appellation, 9 times out of 10, it is Burgundy. Only in Burgundy will you find the sensual silkiness of its Pinot Noir fruit, the ability of a single grape to express so many different characteristics, and for wines being noticeably different while growing in abutting vineyards. And lastly, the level of transparency, delicacy, and ethereal quality of its greatest examples. Le Pergole Torte shares many of these qualities that draw comparisons to Burgundy, but nothing can substitute for the soul of Tuscany that is present in every sip, for you to savor.

MONTEVERTINE wines are very limited.

2009 MONTEVERTINE Le Pergole Torte $115;  Case Price $97.75
“The 2009 Le Pergole Torte is flat-out great. Layers of fruit wrap around the palate in this flashy, seductive Pergole Torte. There are no hard edges to be found. Sweet red cherries, roses, spices and mint are layered into the silky, radiant finish. The 2009 is a wine of extraordinary elegance. 96 pts.” –WA

2010 MONTEVERTINE “Montevertine” $56; Case Price $47.60

2011 MONTEVERTINE “Pian Del Ciampolo” $32; Case Price $27.20

Case orders will be filled first, followed by bottle orders. We recommend that you call or email immediately to reserve. Le Pergole lands May 10 in Concord, and the other wines will arrive next week in both stores.

VINTAGES CONCORD 978-369-2545

VINTAGES BELMONT 617-484-4560

THANK YOU!

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CHABLIS: Desert Island white

Chablis, my desert island (white) wine.

Why Chablis? The first part is obvious……because you would be foraging for clams, oysters, periwinkles, and other tidal pool critters……if you were lucky even some sea urchins! And everyone knows that for seafood from oysters and lobster to clam chowder, there’s is simply no rival to Chablis for optimal pairing with “Frutti di Mare”…….(Okay, a great bottle of grower champagne would also work fine.) The second is more subtle but no less important, Chablis being the most northern appellation of Burgundy, it produces Chardonnay with bristling “natural” acidity and due to the fossilized oceanic rock that is the base for vines to grow …you guessed it, a saline, mineral character that enhances the ocean’s bounty. My third reason for Chablis’ choice for my desert island white: refreshment and drinkability! You can have greatness in wine, profundity in wine, a mind changing, life changing experience in wine, but without drinkability you have nothing. Period. A wine can be rated 150 points but if it is as thick as mud, and woodier than a New Hampshire forest, than there will be no pleasure to be had and wine is all about pleasure! Ideally, a great wine offers you layer upon layer of nuance and intrigue if you’d like, but at the very least it offers pure drinking pleasure.

2009 Chablis “Montee de Tonnerre” 1er cru $55

“Classic Chablis nose of oyster shell, citrus peel and spicy floral aromas gives way to rich and full-bodied yet sophisticated flavors that exude dry extract, which confers a silky mouth feel on the superbly intense and lingering finish that is drier than most ’09s. Definitely worth considering. Sweet spot outstanding! 93 pts.” — Burghound

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Jacques Puffeney: Jura Adventure in Red

Jacques Puffeney, Jura: Reds that Rock!
Puffeney pic cellar
Capt. Jacques Puffeney

We’ve all seen the commercials for Captain Morgan’s rum –

the swashbuckling pirate at a stuffy formal party grabs the beautiful young woman, and whisks her away into a hedonistic after-party where the pleasure-seeking couple are immediately surrounded by other like-minded rebels of culture and gastronomy. They really know how to take life to its dangerously edgy extreme…while they all choke down the cloyingly sweet, artificially-flavored, mass-produced commercial beverage.

It would be much more appropriate to find our hero and heroine at the orgy-like party swilling down bottles of JACQUES PUFFENEY Arbois Poulsard, Trousseau, or Pinot Noir! Something truly edgy, irreverent, and dangerous!

What might the neighbors think?

Jacques Puffeney, Arbois
Reds that Rock

2011 PUFFENEY Poulsard $30

puffeney bottle trio pale red, intensely mineral character with fine tannins

2011 PUFFENEY Trousseau $35

Brambly, ripe raspberries, notes of new leather, black pepper and tea

2011 PUFFENEY Pinot Noir $35

Juicy plum and cherry fruit; fennel and black pepper

Just arrived:
JURA “VIN JAUNE”!

2005 PUFFENEY Arbois Vin Jaune $85 (620ml bottle)

Puffeney Vin Jaune bottleVin Jaune: 100% Savagnin aged a minimum of six years “sous voile,” often in a warmer, attic-like environment. Vin Jaune is quite rare — very particular conditions are required for “true” Vin Jaune; simply picking late and aging long does not guarantee the desired result.  To make a great wine of this type the Savagnin must be both high in sugar and high in acid; a hard-to-obtain combination. The Savagnin destined for the Vin Jaune must age in large barrels at least 6 1/2 years, but Puffeney usually waits 8+ years to make a final determination as to whether the appropriate quality level has been reached. True Vin Jaune is a glorious wine, with unforgettable depth, intensity, piquancy, and complexity. An occasion all on its own!

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PRODUTTORI del BARBARESCO 2008 Riservas

2008 BARBARESCO RISERVAS: “Magnificent!”

As most of you know, Produttori del Barbaresco, the legendary cooperative of Piedmont, claims a special place in our hearts, and on our shelves. Drawing on nebbiolo from nine of the top (cru) Barbaresco vineyards, and winemaking that hews closely to tradition and quality, the Produttori is tough to beat for pure expression of vineyard, variety (nebbiolo), and vintage characteristics. Under the direction of Aldo Vacca, the Produttori has continued to raise the bar for quality from vineyard to cellar with ongoing improvements to accommodate the reality that nearly every vintage since 1996 is rated superior to excellent! Given our long relationship with Aldo Vacca and our in-depth research unearthing bottles from the 1970′s and 1980′s, very little surprises us regarding the amazing longevity and quality of these Barbarescos.

VINTAGES will offer all nine cru bottlings of the 2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Riservas. With nine bottlings to choose from, there’s something for everyone, and comparing the different crus is part of the enjoyment and education. Scores are from Wine Advocate. Grazie!

VINTAGES PRESENTS:  Produttori del Barbaresco 2008 Riservas
Price: $65
Discounts: 12 or more bottles of 2008 cru 15% off  = $55.25 (except Rabaja) CALL 978-369-2545 to order.

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco “Asili” 96 pts. $65

“One of the absolute highlights in this portfolio of utterly amazing wines, the 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Asili possesses marvelous depth and richness, but also little of the early approachability and sexiness of Asili. With time in the glass, the wine’s inner perfume gradually emerges, but ultimately this is a Barbaresco to bury in the deepest corner of the cellar. Once again, the Produttori have done a fabulous job with the Asili. The 2008 has nerves of steel and a huge, never-ending finish. It is by far the most imposing and structured Asili I have ever tasted from the Produttori. 96 pts.” –A. Galloni, WA

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco “Montestefano” 95+ pts. $65

“The 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is exquisite and harmonious from start to finish. Among the more structured 2008s, the Montestefano is the wine that most hides its tannin, as the fruit is intensely perfumed, rich and totally seductive. Today the Montestefano provides the illusion of being relatively accessible, but it is virtually certain to shut down in bottle. The 2008 boasts striking aromatics, seemingly endless layers of fruit and power to burn. 95+ pts.” –A. Galloni, WA

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco “Montefico” 95 pts. $65

“The 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico hits the palate with a blast of fruit intermingled with copious acidity and pure structure. Montefico shares a boundary with Ovello, and shows many of the structural elements typically associated with that side, but with more depth in its fruit, probably because of the southern exposure. The high altitude of these parcels ensures there is plenty of freshness and vibrancy. The Montefico is dazzling, but it will require considerable patience. 95 pts.” A. Galloni, WA

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco “Muncagota” 93 pts. $65

“The 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota is arguably the most open and expressive of the 2008 Riservas. It presents a gorgeous soft core of fruit to match an open personality. Although I wouldn’t suggest opening any of the 2008 Riservas for pleasure anytime soon, readers who want to get an early look at the wines should start with the Muncagota. Sweet rose petals add nuance to the vibrant fruit on the structured finish. This is a great showing from the Muncagota. 93 pts.” –A. Galloni, WA

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco “Ovello” 95+ pts. $65

“The Produttori’s 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is a reference point wine for the village. Firm, steely tannins support a core of expressive fruit in this vibrant, energetic Barbaresco. The 2008 is going to require considerable patience, but it is striking, even today. Sweet floral notes reappear on the vivid, utterly breathtaking finish, adding lift, precision and vibrancy. This is a stunning wine from the Produttori. The style is built on tension, energy and focus; in other words, all the qualities Ovello is known for. 95+ pts.” –A. Galloni, WA

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco “Paje” 93 pts. $65

“The 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Paje wraps around the palate with layers of dark fruit, spices and menthol. Today, the Paje is one of the more open of the 2008 Riservas, but there is plenty going on in the glass. Sweet floral and spiced notes add lift on the finish. 93 pts.” –A. Galloni, WA

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco “Pora” 95 pts. $65

“Playing true to type, the 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is another of the more open wines in this vintage. But that is only in relative terms. Layers of expressive red fruit, crushed flowers and spices flesh out in this radiant Barbaresco. In most vintages the Pora is one of the more accessible of the Riservas when young. The close proximity of the vineyard to the Tanaro River results in a warm microclimate that ripens the fruit earlier than elsewhere. In 2008, though, the Pora packs a serious punch. The coolness of the late harvest comes through in a finish laced with considerable tension and minerality. This is easily one of the very best Poras I have ever tasted from the Produttori. 95 pts.” –A. Galloni, WA

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco “Rio Sordo” 92 pts. $65

“A picture perfect example of site, the 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is classic Rio Sordo. Medium in body, it possesses a sweet, open bouquet and a relatively medium-bodied personality next to the rest of the wines in this range. A long, pointed finish rounds things out nicely. Overall, the 2008 is a pretty, nuanced wine with lovely detail, precision and class. 92 pts.” –A. Galloni, WA

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco “Rabaja” 96+ pts. $65 net*

“The 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja is utterly magnificent in this vintage. Usually a powerhouse, the 2008 is incredibly refined to the point it seems to literally hover on the palate. It is a wine of exquisite grace and beauty. All the elements are in place. I could describe the aromas and flavors, but that would be doing this majestic Barbaresco a huge disservice. Ultimately, the 2008 Rabaja, is all about textural finesse and pure elegance. This is another breathtaking wine from the Produttori. A king among kings. 96+ pts.” –A. Galloni, WA

*Note: (As always, 2008 Rabaja is very limited and can only be purchased along with other crus. For every three bottles of 2008 Riservas purchased, you may purchase one bottle of 2008 Rabaja net-priced at $65).

CALL 978-369-2545 to order.
“Simply put, these are the very best young Riservas I have ever tasted from the Produttori. The wines will require considerable patience, but they are stacked and packed with tremendous concentration of fruit allied to structure. It is a vintage Piedmont drinkers love to love, where the individual signatures of each terroir are clearly delineated. Best of all, the Riservas remain exceedingly fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Congratulations to Aldo Vacca, longtime oenologist Gianni Testa and the entire team at Produttori del Barbaresco for this magnificent collection of 2008 Barbareschi.” — A. Galloni, WA

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Artisan wines from Napa Valley

MATTHIASSON FAMILY: Nature, Craft, Simplicity

“One of the most interesting California producers is also one of the most unusual, and alas, microscopically small. It is Matthiasson Family Vineyards… it’s a family operation, set unexpectedly in the heart of Napa Valley.”

– Eric Asimov, NY Times

Inspired artisanal wines by top vineyard consultant, Steve Matthiasson
Steve’s current clients in Napa and Sonoma include Araujo Estate, Spottswoode, Chappellet, Hall, David Arthur, Robert Sinskey Vineyards, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. Steve and his wife Jill have a lifetime commitment to sustainable agriculture. These priniciples inform all their efforts in farming and winemaking.

2011 MATTHIASSON Linda Vista Chardonnay $35
This wine is 100% Chardonnay from the Linda Vista Vineyard behind house. Showing green and yellow apples, peaches, melon, and honey on the nose and through to the palate, the high acidity is balanced by pleasant fleshiness, finishing very clean with a hint of minerality. Refreshing and with moderate alcohol, this wine is all about pleasure. 850 cases produced.

2011 MATTHIASSON Napa Valley White $40

Inspired by an ideal of a mythical old world wine. An attempt to get to the core of an archetypal white wine, what it’s all about. The 2011 version is a blend of 56% Sauvignon blanc, 20% Ribolla gialla, 18% Semillon, and 8% Tocai friulano. Lightness and richness, focus and complexity. 895 cases produced.

2008 MATTHIASSON Napa Valley Red $80

Bordeaux-inspired red blend of 67% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet franc, 2% Malbec, and 2% Petit verdot. Red and black cherries, dark chocolate, ripe blackberries, and notes of black tea and bay leaf.  Very juicy, with chocolate, dark fruit, and black tea on the finish. 180 cases produced.

Extremely limited! Available in both stores while they last.

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BISSON Abissi: Bubbly buried treasure

BISSON “Abissi” Methodo Classico $90 (very limited quantities)

With “Abissi,” Pierluigi Lugano solved a practical problem — not enough storage — with an elaborate, watery solution: aging his sparkling “methodo classico” wines underwater off the coast of Portofino.

Abissi bottles in the ocean

Lugano says:   “It’s better than even the best underground cellar, especially for sparkling wine. The temperature is perfect, there’s no light, the water prevents even the slightest bit of air from getting in, and the constant pressure keeps the bubbles bubbly. Moreover, the underwater currents act like a crib, gently rocking the bottles and keeping the lees moving through the wine.”

BISSON "Abissi"

Made from a blend of local grapes Vermentino and Bianchetti Genovese, “Abissi” offers entrancing aromas of wildflower blossoms, hay, and wild herbs. In the mouth, very fine bubbles float the notes of citrus peel, peach, spice, and chalk. As the wine opens, flavors deepen and become more complex. This remarkable sparkling will make any occasion even more memorable!

Find out more about this fascinating process with the link below:

DINING & WINE | August 24, 2011 
This Wine Goes Well With Fish

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