PRIORAT, SPAIN: Dramatically different

How Lucky can you get?

Scala Dei, Priorat

It’s not just one or two factors that make the case for Priorat: it’s terroir magnified to the tenth power: a veritable inversion of riches. Northwest exposure is prized against the intensity of the sun and heat; parched, inhospitable conditions, crumbly, nutritionally-poor slate soil, steeply terraced vineyards — how lucky can you get?

The Romans planted vines as early as the 3rd c. B.C., but not much attention was paid to the region until the early 1990′s, when dozens of wineries erupted in long-forgotten villages following the success of Rene Barbier of Clos Mogador and the original five “Clos” established in the 1980′s. What’s all the fuss? Just try a few of these wines, and find out!

Whites

2010 PAZO de SENORANS Albarino $23

“As usual, Pazo de Senorans has made one of the finest Albarinos of the vintage. The 2010 Albarino was aged in small stainless steel vats sur lie with batonnage for 4 months. Jasmine, mineral, lemon zest, and other citrus notes inform the nose of this multi-dimensional, already complex white. On the palate, tropical flavors emerge adding to the wine’s pleasure quotient. Drink this superb effort over the next 3-4 years. 93 pts. –WA

2010 CONRERIA d’SCALA “Les Brugueres” $36

“Bright, spicy aromas of pear, lemon curd, honey and toasty lees. Concentrated, tactile and dense, with spicy lift to its flavors of white fruit and candied flowers. A chewy, mineral-driven wine, showing the richness of old vines, reportedly more than a century old. Finishes bright and long, echoing the lemon and pear notes. This wine’s blend of depth and energy is intriguing. 92 pts.” -IWA

Red

2009 SCALA DEI Negre $19.99

The first winery established in Priorat, Scala Dei dates back to 1163.  The dramatic landscape of the region surrounding the winery is breathtakingly steep and covered in black slate. The extremely low grape yields, sometimes only two pounds of fruit per vine, produce highly concentrated fruit.  A fresh, intense, structured wine with a fresh aroma of ripe red berries. Blackberries and fig on the palate with underlying mineral notes from the “licorella” slate soil. Pairs well with grilled meats, cured cheeses, and cured meats.

2009 CELLERS de l’ENCASTELL “Marge” $30

Located in the ancient town of Porrera, the winery was built in 1999 to vinify the estate’s 50-80 year old Grenache and Carignan vineyards. “Celler de L’Encastell’s 2009 Marge is made up of 60% Garnacha with the balance Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 8 months in French and American oak. Dense purple in color, it delivers an enticing nose of licorice, liquid minerality, lavender, incense, and black cherry. Round, intense, and layered on the palate, it is likely to unwind for another 2-3 years and deliver prime drinking from 2013 to 2021. 91 pts” – WA

2007 MAS d’En COMPTE Tinto $30

One of the oldest grape-growing families in the Priorat, the Sangenis family established Mas d’en Compte in 1995 to bottle wine under their own name. Grapes organically farmed. Most vines are 50+ years old, with some parcels of 100+ years.

2007 CLOS FIGUERES “Font de la Figuera” $40

Located in Gratallops on the northern side of the Sierra del Monsant, the area’s unique soils, climate and elevation separate it from other villages in the region. Only 16 miles from the Mediterranean, cooling breezes blow up the Ebro Valley from the coast regulating the temperatures in the vineyards. “The 2007 Font de la Figuera is deep crimson-colored with a compelling nose of mineral, scorched earth, Asian spices, boysenberry, and black cherry. This is followed by a full-bodied wine with layers of flavor and enough structure to evolve for 4-6 years. This well-balanced, lengthy Priorat will deliver prime drinking from 2014 to 2027. 91 pts.” –WA