NEW ARRIVALS: 2005 & 2003 BORDEAUX “Petit Estates”

One of the rewards of actively seeking out authentic, classic wines… is actually finding them. What is it all about? Check out these “petit bordeaux” that exemplify the very best of another era– or the best of our own?

2005 CHATEAU MOULIN de TRICOT Margaux $50

Château Moulin de Tricot is a tiny property established in the 19th c. where the art of winemaking has been lovingly transmitted from generation to generation. Bruno Rey is the current proprietor of the estate and, with the assistance of his wife and son, he cares for the vineyards, makes the wine; then bottles this extraordinary, rare gem.

The Rey family owns a mere 2 h of vineyards on a gravelly “croupe” (outcropping) in the commune of Arsac. The sandy gravel provides excellent drainage while the clay in the subsoil provides moisture to the vines deep roots. Moulin de Tricot stands virtually alone as it continues to follow the classic style of Margaux: utilizing Cabernet Sauvignon as the dominant grape variety. Cabernet accounts for 70% of the vineyards, Merlot the remaining 30%.  The spice and elegance of the Margaux appellation are expressed with precision at Tricot.  The impeccable balance of the Tricot wines is a constant, no matter the vintage, and the concentration and depth of the marvelous 2005 vintage give to this release a presence that is regal indeed.  There is plum and licorice with a background of cinnamon and clove playing a complex but subtle symphony.

2003 DOMAINE de JAUGARET St. Julien $72

The petite estate of Domaine de Jaugaret has been in the Fillastre family since 1654. Jean-François Fillastre is dedicated to preserving the traditions not only of Jaugaret but of the St. Julien appellation. Here is an estate where one finds neither pretense nor hubris, just the essence of the appellation.

DOMAINE Jaugaret comprises a mere 1.3 h of vineyards, made up almost exclusively of Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) with some Petit Verdot and Malbec to supplement this classic Medoc structure. The average age of the vines is over 50 years and some of the Malbec vineyards are in excess of 100 years old. The old vines of Jaugaret combined with the unfertile, gravelly soils leads to naturally low yields, providing M. Fillastre with a concentration virtually unequalled in the appellation. Deep, dark classic Cabernet fruit, notes of smoke and tar, satisfying chewy tannins. Fans of Medoc, St. Julien, Cabernet or just great red wine — don’t miss this!

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