Apr 11 2009
REPORT from MONTALCINO & VINITALY
Report from Montalcino & Vinitaly
VINTAGES’ intrepid wine director Eric Broege traveled to MONTALCINO in Tuscany last week to visit many of the top estates in the region. While he has tasted these wines in other contexts, it is certainly invaluable to have an in-depth conversation with the winemaker in their own cellar. A couple of brief observations: the top Brunello winemakers hold very different views and follow divergent practices — with each winemaker deeply committed to their method and philosophy. There’s no single best way to make outstanding Brunello; these cellars have a vision for their wine and know how to best capture the distinctive characteristics of their land and their wine.
Two examples of stylistic extremes of equal quality Brunello are VALDICAVA and SOLDERA (Case Basse). Vincenzo Abbruzzese of VALDICAVA extracts the richer, fruitier violet-hued aspects of sangiovese, in contrast to Gianfranco Soldera of CASE BASSE, who aims for an ethereal, infinitely delicate but equally profound expression. Eric met with Giulio Salvioni of SALVIONI di CERBAIOLA, and Diego Molinari of CERBAIONA, two of the greatest traditional cellars Montalcino has ever known. Both create singular wines, unique expressions of Sangiovese made with the highest level of quality. Eric also visited LA TORRE, FULIGNI, ALTESINO, and CASNOVA di NERI, not to mention MONTEVERTINE in Chianti on the way to Verona.
Eric will be updating the website with more photos and info over the next week.
Stay tuned for 2004 Brunello offers from these estates and more.
