Jul 16 2009
New Arrivals: PRIORAT, Spain
New arrivals: PRIORAT, Spain

One of the few full-bodied reds that offer compelling enjoyment with profound complexity and finesse is PRIORAT, the garnacha-based wines of Catalan SW of Barcelona. Distinctive brown slate soil known as “llicorella,” old-vine grapes that thrive in the harsh, arid climate, and winemaking pioneers that brought together the best of these characteristics have created wines of world-class character in a very short time.
CELLER de l’ENCASTELL is a small family-run vineyard and winery in the town of Porrera, Priorat, where “Roquers de Porrera” and “Marge” are vinified. Carme Figuerola and Raimon Castellví built the winery and got started in 1999, moved by their passion for wine and the exceptional quality of the soils where their vineyard grows – locally called “llicorella.” The wines “Marge” and “Roquers de Porrera” are perennial favorites of VINTAGES’ customers.
2007 Celler de l’Encastell “Marge” Priorat $28
“The 2007 Marge is the entry level wine from Raimon Castellvi, owner and winemaker of Roquers de Porrera. “Marge” is the local name for the stone walls made of slate taken from the Priorat vineyards. It is a blend of 60% Garnacha, 14% Syrah, 13% Merlot, and 13% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for eight months in French and American oak. The wine is a glass-coating opaque purple with legs that ooze down the glass. The brooding nose reveals crushed stone, spice box, violets, tar, black cherry, and blueberry. This is followed by a dense, rich, structured Priorat with 1-2 years of aging potential. Drink it through 2017. 90 pts.” -Wine Advocate
2005 Celler l’Encastell “Roquers de Porrera” $65
Deep red. Spicy blueberry and kirsch aromas are brightened by white pepper and minerals. Juicy dark fruit flavors, with firm tannins adding grip. Sweet vanillin oak spice builds on the long, sappy finish, which features a lingering raspberry note. 90 pts.”-IWC
2006 ALVARO PALACIOS “Les Terrasses” Priorat $38
“The 2006 Les Terrasses is a blend of 60% Carinena, 30%
Garnacha, with the balance Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It was aged for 12 mos. in 20% new French oak. Purple-colored, it exhibits a fragrant bouquet of cedar, mineral, spice box, incense, black cherry, and blackberry. This is followed by a full-bodied, dense, rich wine with excellent harmony, potential complexity, and a fruit-filled finish. It has enough structure to evolve for several years and will deliver prime drinking from 2012 to 2021. 91 pts.” –Wine Advocate
2006 CLOS MOGADOR $90 95 pts.
“The opaque purple-colored 2006 Clos Mogador has an enticing nose of pain grille, pencil lead, truffle, incense, black cherry, and blackberry. Full-bodied, dense, and layered on the palate, it has loads of succulent black fruit, spice box, ripe tannin, impeccable balance, and a lengthy, pure finish. Give it 5-7 years of additional cellaring and drink it from 2015 to 2026. 95 pts.”
CLOS ERASMUS
Daphne Glorian, owner/winemaker of Clos Erasmus, is one of the pioneers of the PRIORAT appellation. Clos Erasmus
was begun with the purchase of some old vineyards of Garnacha by Daphne Glorian, who happened to be in the area visiting some friends. What started as a “fun” project in 1990 soon became a very serious endeavor as the Priorat and Clos Erasmus rapidly ascended to world-class wine status.
2006 Clos Erasmus 97 pts. $200
“As usual Clos Erasmus is one of Spain’s finest wines. The 2006 Clos Erasmus offers an ethereal bouquet of balsam and sandalwood, incense, liquid mineral, black cherry, and black raspberry. Dense, rich, and voluptuous on the palate, it has plenty of well-concealed ripe tannin, tons of fruit, and potential complexity. Give it 5-7 years of additional cellaring and drink it from 2015 to 2025. 97 pts.” -Wine Advocate
2006 Clos Erasmus “Laurel” $50 (arriving next week) “The 2006 Laurel sports aromas of slate/mineral, black licorice, incense, black cherry, and blackberry liqueur. Ripe, sweet, and structured on the palate, this lengthy, succulent effort has enough tannin to support another 4-6 years of cellaring and will have a drinking window extending from 2014 to 2026. Laurel, one of Priorat’s greatest values dollar for dollar, is sourced from the younger vines of the estate and from declassified barrels of Clos Erasmus itself. 93 pts.”
