wine tasting Feb. 26 & 27
Small Domaines–Big Flavor: Wines of Rosenthal
Concord & Belmont
Fri. FEB. 26, 4-7pm, Belmont
Sat. FEB. 27, 2-6pm, Concord

Importer and wine merchant Neal Rosenthal has traveled the backroads of France for more than 30 years, seeking out small family domaines that take great pride in their land and their traditions. There’s a difference you can taste in these authentic, artisan wines – the warmth and enjoyment that comes from something handcrafted and homemade!

white
2008 DOM. CHEVEAU Macon Fuisse “Les Grandes Bruyeres” $22 (Macon, Burgundy)
Nicolas Cheveau is the third generation to uphold the family tradition of their Maconnais domaine.  At this 14-ha estate based in Pouilly, grapes are hand-harvested and farmed without fertilizers.  100% Chardonnay from  40-yr-old vines from a small parcel just south of Mâcon.
 
2007 CH. DE L’EPERONNIERE Savennieres Croix Picot $25 (Loire Valley)
After Pierre-Yves Tijou retired and sold Chateau Soucherie, his youngest son Mathieu has continued his family’s legacy with Chateau de l’Eperonniere. Mathieu Tijou has produced this aromatic and beautifully complex & compelling Chenin Blanc –truly exceptional!
 
red
2008 COMMANDERIE DE PEYRASSOL La Croix Vin de Pays de Mediterranee  (Provence, France) $14.99 Commanderie de Peyrassol, once owned by Templar Knights centuries ago, was transformed by the Rigord family in the 70’s.  Philippe Austruy purchased Peyrassol in 2001, and has taken Provencal tradition to heart with tantalizingly pale roses, aromatic whites and luscious reds.  “La Croix” is a  blend of Grenache, Syrah, and a touch of old-vine Cabernet– a great match for hearty, warming dishes.
 
2007 DOM. FAILLENC SAINTE MARIE Corbieres $15.99 (Languedoc) Corbieres is a large area in western Languedoc with a dramatic landscape and a long history under vine. Faillenc Ste. Marie, however, is a very small domaine certified ‘organic’ that has been brought to life by the Gibert family. Jean-Baptiste Gibert has now taken the reins. This distinctive style of Corbieres rouge is intensely flavored and concentrated, yet lively on the palate. Blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault.
 
2006 MAS CAL DEMOURA L’Infidele Coteaux du Languedoc $25 In the 70’s, when most Languedoc producers were closing down, Jean-Pierre Jullien named his domaine “Cal Demoura” (one must remain).  Today, the estate is run by Burgundy-trained Vincent and Isabelle Goumard.  “L’Infidele” is considered the historic cuvee of the domaine, blending Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Carignan. A rich and full, yet complex and vibrant red.
“L’Infidele displays an uncanny combination of palate richness and viscosity with vivacious brightness of fruit and fine-grained tannin.“ –WA

On the Wine Route: VINISUD & Burgundy

VINTAGES’ intrepid wine director ERIC BROEGE is spending 8 days in France, tasting 300 wines today and tomorrow at VINISUD in Montpellier and braving the chilly cellars of Burgundy later this week.  VINISUD is the annual wine fair for 1,500 Mediterranean wine producers from southern France, Spain, Portugal and more. From value picks to grand crus, Eric tastes and evaulates them all, selecting only the very best for a coveted place in our cellar and yours! So far, some great finds in Gigondas & Vacqueyras, not yet in the U.S.

WINE TASTING: SAT. Nov. 14 
2007 CLOS du MONT OLIVET
CHATEAUNEUF & COTES du RHONE
Concord: Saturday 12-5pm
Belmont: Saturday 3-6pm

CLOS du MONT OLIVET
“One of the hallmark and legendary estates of Chateauneuf du Pape, having first estate-bottled wine in the early 1930s, Clos du Mont Olivet is a reference point for traditional, long-lived Chateauneuf du Pape.”– WA

2007 CLOS du MONT OLIVET “Tradition” $40 92 pts.
“The brilliant 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition (made from 80% Grenache and the rest Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, and other assorted authorized varieties) is brilliant. Gorgeous notes reminiscent of an open-air Provencal fruit and vegetable market jump from the glass of this deep plum/purple-colored wine. The wine is expansive, savory, very fleshy, and totally disarming in its explosive aromatics and lush, opulent flavors. The better-than-average acids, due to the cool growing year, give it uplift and vibrancy, which nicely buttress the wine’s full-bodied power and substance. This is a beauty to drink over the next 15 or so years. 92 pts.” –WA (photo: Thierry Sabon, Clos du Mont Olivet)

More wines from Clos du Mont Olivet in the tasting:

2008 CLOS du MONT OLIVET Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc $39
Masterful blend of 30% Clairette, 30% Bourblenc, 25% Roussanne, 15% Grenache Blanc from a collection of the family’s older-vine plots.

2007 MONT OLIVET Cotes du Rhone “Varene” $22
100% Syrah — debut vintage!

2008 CLOS du MONT OLIVET “Montueil de Lavade” V.V. $15.99
Old-vine Cotes du Rhone.

2007 CLOS du MONT OLIVET Cotes du Rhone “Font de Blanche” $13.99 Unbeatable value!

2007 CLOS du MONT OLIVET Chateauneuf du Pape “La Cuvee Papet” $75 98+pts.  SOLD OUT! “The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape La Cuvee du Papet may will turn out to be their finest example since the 1998 and 1990. Stylistically, it probably comes closest to resembling the legendary 1990. Notes of roasted meats and smoked duck, with Provencal herbs, truffle, incense, licorice, and pepper, are all there, plus enormous quantities of red and black fruits. This is one heck of a complex wine, with a bouquet that is the essence of southern France, in particular Provence. Full-bodied, powerful, with the glycerin and level of richness covering some lofty tannins, this wine is already accessible and nearly impossible to resist, but my instincts suggest it will be absolutely glorious in another 4-5 years and keep for 15-20. 98+ pts.” –R. Parker

WINE TASTING: Sat. Oct. 17, 3-6pm Belmont
Chateauneuf du Pape & Alto Adige

An odd couple indeed — Rhone & Alto Adige. Yet, both of these regions strongly rely on aromatics to set the stage for what’s to come. From the pristine Alps to the rugged mountains surrounding the Rhone valley, these whites and reds deliver!

ABBAZIA di NOVACELLA (Photo: Celestino Lucin, 2009 Winemaker of the Year from Gambero Rosso)
“Abbazia di Novacella in Alto Adige is located in one of the most breathtakingly beautiful corners of Italy. In particular, the wines made from indigenous varieties are well worth seeking out. These wines beautifully express the unique qualities of their respective varieties and the unique Valle Isarco terroir.”–WA

2007 ABBAZIA dI NOVACELLA Pinot Grigio $22
“The 2007 Pinot Grigio is a delicate, perfumed white with well-articulated fruit and pretty aromatics.”–WA

2007 ABBAZIA dI NOVACELLA Sylvaner $22  Reveals lovely detail and nuance in a layered expression of fruit. Admirable length and complexity.

2007 ABBAZIA dI NOVACELLA Kerner $25  “It beautifully marries the detail that many of these wines have with a ripe, generous expression of fruit. Citrus peel, melon, spices and mint are just some of the notes that can be found in this beautiful, absolutely delicious white.” –WA

REDS- CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE
2006 DOM. MONPERTUIS Chateauneuf du Pape $45
“Fresh red berries on the nose, with complicating notes of rose, lavender and smoky minerals. Gains power on the broad, penetrating finish while maintaining freshness and clarity.”–IWA

2006 LE VIEUX DONJON Chateauneuf du Pape $69
“Intensely perfumed aromas of Asian spices, garrigue, red berries, smoke and minerals. This elegant wine calls to mind pinot noir in its weight and texture. Sweet, palate-staining raspberry and cherry flavors are enlivened by juicy acidity. Very pure and seductive wine with no gamey qualities and a long, sweet finish.”–IWA

2005 CLOS du MONT OLIVET “La Cuvee du Papet” $68
“(95% grenache and 5% mourvedre) Inky ruby. Stunningly fragrant bouquet of fresh red berries, cherry, minerals, Asian spices and fresh flowers; with its combination of power and purity, this smells like a Musigny. Deeply concentrated raspberry and cherry flavors are complicated by anise, cinnamon and floral pastille, with big but interwoven tannins adding grip. Finishes with outstanding silky persistence and a strong red berry character. 94 pts.” -IWA

2007 DOM. de VIEUX TELEGRAPHE Chateauneuf-du-Pape 96pts. $75
“Throughout the southern Rhône, 2007 is the greatest vintage I have tasted in my thirty years working in that region. This venerable estate, long run by the Brunier family, is a consistent source for fabulous wines.” –Robert Parker

“The 2007 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape should ultimately eclipse the 2005 and 1998. It appears to be one of the finest wines made by Daniel Brunier and his brother. Its deep ruby color is accompanied by a superb nose of nori seaweed wrappers, licorice, pepper, tobacco leaf, and gobs of sweet black cherry and black currant fruit. Full-bodied with a fabulous texture, purity, and freshness (a consistent hallmark of this vintage), a juicy, rich, layered mouthfeel, and a finish that lasts for 45+ seconds. Although young, the tannin, acidity, and alcohol are all well-integrated. Typically, this wine tends to be dormant for 3-5 years after bottling, then emerge brilliantly. Therefore, I would wait until 2012 before pulling a cork on this one. Drink it over the following 20-25 years. 94-96+ pts.” — Robert Parker, Wine Advocate

NEW ARRIVAL:  2004 CHATEAU VILLERAMBERT “LA SYRAH” $17.99 (Minervois)
Under viticulture since the ancient Romans, the winery at Chateau Villerambert-Julien was established in the 12th c. The fifth generation of the Julien family is now at the helm; Michel Julien has taken quality to the next level at this estate, which is more than evident in his outstanding 2004 Syrah. “La Syrah” de Villerambert-Julien is 100% Syrah produced from small yields on chalky clay, its preferred soil. Vinified and aged in cask, it offers very pure and powerful aromas, deep cherry fruit and chocolate flavors, beautiful fine tannins and a long, smooth finish. Great example of Syrah from southern France! Highly recommended.

CHATEAUNEUF du PAPE 2005 & 2006!

“2006 is a spicy vintage, with very good energy and depth,” said Thierry Sabon of Clos du Mont Olivet, lamenting that it may be lost in the frenzy for the 2005s and 2007s. “In an earlier generation it would have been the best of a decade.”
2006 CLOS DU MONT OLIVET Cuvee du Papet $68
“Deep ruby. Alluring, highly perfumed bouquet of vivid black raspberry, blueberry and minerals, with a sexy floral overtone. Impressively precise, with sweet red and black fruit flavors braced by tangy minerality and complemented by rose, lavender and succulent herbs. The finish of this impressively balanced wine is brisk and focused, with sneaky sweetness and persistence. 93 pts.” -IWC

2005 CLOS DU MONT OLIVET Chateauneuf Cuvee du Papet $65  “Stunningly fragrant bouquet of fresh red berries, cherry, minerals, Asian spices and fresh flowers; with its combination of power and purity, this smells like a Musigny  94 pts.” –IWC.

2006 VIEUX DONJON CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE $69  “Smoky cherry and blackcurrant aromas convey a wild, gamey quality; smells like a northern Rhone wine. Deep dark fruit liqueur and olive flavors are sharpened by zesty minerals and finish with impressive grip. 94 pts.” -IWC

2006 DOM. MONPERTUIS CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE $45  “Offering bright raspberry, cherry, floral pastille and garrigue flavors framed by gentle tannins. Gains power on the broad, penetrating finish while maintaining freshness and clarity. 91 pts.”– IWC

2003 DOM. MONPERTUIS CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE “Tradition” $68 “Heady aromas of ripe red and dark berries, plum, smoked meat, licorice and rose oil. Sweet, lush and round, with dense flavors of blackberry, cassis and tobacco. 93 pts.”–IWC

GREAT VALUES from FRANCE & ITALY
reds
2004 VERGET du SUD CHATEAU des TOURETTES Cabernet Sauvignon “Endes” $19.99
Run circles around your friends’ “Big Domestic Cab” with this ‘little’ European Import. Made by Jean-Marie Guffens of Burgundy fame, this beautiful ruby-garnet colored Cabernet Sauvignon has a character that makes me imagine a hypothetical blend of a Medoc Bordeaux and an excellent Super-Tuscan. Classic creme de cassis aromas intermingle with roasted red cherries as well as notes of cedar. In the mouth the wine is perfectly ripe with flavors of red-berry fruits, balsamic notes, and a long toasty finish.

2006 CHATEAU L’ERMITAGE Syrah “Via Compostelle” Costieres des Nimes Special $12.99! Winter’s chill instills a craving for the sun-splashed warmth of Mediterranean reds. This value-priced Syrah from the Costerieres des Nimes in southern France is grown in vineyards that line the 11th c. pilgrimage route from Europe to Santiago di Compostella.  “Via Compostelle” offers fresh, vibrant and uplifting aromas of blueberries, blackberries, violets, and minerals.  Syrah’s classic hint of white pepper punctuates the finish of this southern french beauty that behaves more like a Crozes-Hermitage from the northern Rhone. A great deal!

whites
2004 JEAN RIJCKAERT Cotes du Jura, Savagnin “Les Sarres” Reg. $23 Special $19.99  Add this to your new year’s resolution: lean, taut, fit, crisp, (but not lacking in exotic complexity), Savagnin, an indigenous white from the Cotes du Jura. Located east of Burgundy, the Jura shares the same Jurassic limestone foundation as Burgundy, giving their wines noteworthy characteristics of creamy stones, dusty chalk, and lemon-tinged minerals. Reminiscent of a great burgundy– think premier cru Chablis–but with a little something different, maybe fresh spring herbs–this is a wine that strikes a perfect balance between multi-dimensional flavor and great ‘Drinkability.’ A perfect match with fondue, scallops, lobster, or a simple buckwheat pasta with aged Fontina, wild mushrooms, and Brussels sprouts.

2005 LA COLOMBERA “Timorasso” Colli Tortonesi Reg. $19.99 Now $14.99!  “Timorasso” is an indigenous Piedmontese varietal unique to Colli Tortonesi, a region sandwiched between Gavi and Oltrepo Pavese. Aromas of baked-spiced, honey-tinged apples jump from the glass. The flavor of the wine is decidedly drier with orchard fruits predominating, leading to a long, powdery- mineral finish. Serve cool, but not overchilled — you’ll miss the parade of flavors!

Just Arrived! 2007 VIGNERONS du CARACTERE Cotes du Rhone 3 Liter Box $30!
What is 3 Liters? It’s four bottles of wine! In a vacuum-packed, eco-friendly  box. Drink a little; drink a lot. Maintains freshness for one month after opening. Such a deal!

“Tasty, with a mix of black cherry, graphite and spice notes followed by a solid, medium-weight finish. Blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. Drink now.” –W.S.