People often ask, “Is this a good vintage?” The thoughtful oenophile would answer, “Good for what?” Are you cellaring the wine for 10-20 years? Are you saving it for a future occasion? Are you drinking it tonight? Great wines from great vintages generally do not equate to immediate drinking enjoyment; they take time to mature. Great wines from “good” vintages can be enjoyed earlier, Continue Reading »

NEW ARRIVALS: 2003 Brunello di Montalcino
Built on a ridge risiing more than 500 meters, the walled medieval village of Montalcino is encircled with six gates and 19 towers, most of which are still visible. The town’s signature wine, Brunello, is as monumental as its 14th c. fortress. 2003 was a warm vintage and the best producers made very appealing wines– more fruit forward, with a richer, more flamboyant style, balanced acidity and softer tannins. 
2003 CASTELLO ROMITORIO Brunello di Montalcino $58 Castello Romitorio, a massive 12th c. fortress, stands proudly on a hilltop overlooking Montalcino. There renowned Italian artist Sandro Chia produces exquisite Tuscan wines with a unique passion and vision. After acquiring the estate in 1984, Sandro Chia spent several years restoring the medieval fortress and transforming its lands into vineyards. Sandro also enlisted the expertise of one of the world’s leading enologists, Carlo Ferrini, allowing Castello Romitorio to continue leading the way for premium Tuscan wines. Continue Reading »

2003 CANALICCHIO di SOPRA Brunello di Montalcino $68 “This family-run estate makes an excellent Brunello from its 15 hectares of vineyards in the Canalicchio zone of Montalcino. From vintage to vintage the wine shows its characteristic notes of scorched earth and ripe dark fruit. With a few years of bottle age the wines begin to display attractive, heady white truffle overtones. Castello Romitorio favors cask-aging for its Brunello and the wines are made in a fairly traditional style.”–Wine Advocate

2003 VALDICAVA Brunello di Montalcino $129 95 pts.
“Enticing aromas of meat and mushroom pie mingle with rich plum and spices. Full-bodied, with silky, caressing tannins and intense fruit and mineral flavors. Well-crafted, finishing long. Valdicava’s flagship Brunello is the wine of the vintage. Best after 2010. 95 pts.”–W.S.

2003 BRUNELLO & 2006 ROSSO from POGGIO ANTICO

2003 POGGIO ANTICO Brunello di Montalcino $75
POGGIO ANTICO began its viticultural life in the 1970’s. Featuring sunny, south-facing vineyards on calcareous, rocky soil at one of the highest altitudes in Montalcino, the estate vineyards average 1,476 ft. Paola Montefiori, daughter of the founders, took over management of the estate in 1987. She says, “The 2003 Brunello has it all: intense nose, with amazing black currant and cherry aromas and hints of licorice, spices and leather. On the palate, it is rich, dense and powerful, yet emphasizes finesse and balance. The Brunello benefits from a little time in the glass, to show all its complexity and velvety tannins. It’s a great bottle to lay down for many years to come, yet you’ll be pleasantly surprised by its wonderful balance and silky texture if you decide to enjoy it right away.”

2006 POGGIO ANTICO Rosso di Montalcino $38
The Rosso di Montalcino grapes and their quality are identical to those of the regular Brunello: the sole distinction is in élevage. In practice, the Rosso from Poggio Antico is made by bottling a small quantity of Brunello early. Lovely, deep ruby red; intense bouquet of ripe red fruit, plum, and black cherry. On the palate, shows roundness and richness, appealing, silky texture and concentration. Consistent, long finish.

2000 SALVIONI di CERBAIOLA Brunello di Montalcino $140
“Three Glasses Award” -Gambero Rosso
“With the 2000 vintage, Giulio and Mirella Salvioni have returned to the top ranks of Montalcino producers. In a warm year like 2000, the higher elevation of their estate provided cooler temperatures, allowing them to make a quintessential Brunello. A lovely dense ruby color, if offers an unusually rich aromatic spectrum foregrounding ripe cherry fruit alongside notes of crisp apple and pear, nuanced by a delightful whiff of tobacco leaf. The palate is rich and dense, though never heavy. It progresses with a stately, elegant development to a stunningly rich, almost endless finale.” –Gambero Rosso

2005 SALVIONI di CERBAIOLA Rosso di Montalcino $60
The Salvioni family has been growing Sangiovese grapes for generations, starting in the early 1900s. The Rosso di Montalcino acquired DOC recognition in 1983. Rosso di Montalcino is made from the same varietal as Brunello, 100% Sangiovese. Both are grown and harvested in the same areas, however the Rosso is aged typically for one year instead of four years. The 2005 offers deep garnet color; intense aromas of pepper and spices with hints of vanilla. A full-bodied wine with dark cherry, plum and fruit flavors.

2004 ALDO CONTERNO Barbera d’Alba “Conca Tre Pile” $50 (Piedmont)
This is a very classy 2004 Barbera we tasted this week — extremely impressive, serious sour cherry with earthy and chocolate undertones. Pretty tremendous, with deep flavor, structure and power. A wine that commands attention; very Piemontese in style. Continue Reading »

2004 TOMMASO BUSSOLA Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $66

No one who was at last year’s Tommaso Bussola Amarone wine dinner in Boston’s Chinatown will ever forget the experience. If it wasn’t the unbelievable, knock-your-socks-off wines, it could have been the extravagant “Emperor’s Feast” served by the Peach Farm chefs; or, maybe it was the Kevin Spacey movie being filmed right outside! Of course, we mostly remember Tommaso and his incredible wines. Continue Reading »

FRANCOIS CHIDAINE offers an overlooked grape for your serious enjoyment: Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. Chidaine makes rich, unctuous whites from his family’s 20h estate in Montlouis, and makes juicy, lush wines from 10h in Vouvray across the river (leased from Prince Poniatowski). Francois is the only Montlouis winemaker to produce wines on both sides of the Loire, which he’s been doing since 2002. Continue Reading »

Vouvray
2006 FRANCOIS CHIDAINE Vouvray “Clos Baudoin” $26 From the 70-year-old vines planted in deep chalk-clay that formed the heart of the Poniatowski property, the wines are sleek and fine, with notes of honeyed pear, chalk and citrus, and more complexity and dimension. It’s always a dry wine, as Chidaine believes this vineyard excels at classic Vouvray sec. While the 2005 vintage was quite rich, almost heavy, 2006 is more balanced and classic.

2005 FRANCOIS CHIDAINE Vouvray “Les Argiles” $22 94 pts. “Lusciously juicy and almost dry, Chidaine’s 2005 Vouvray Les Argiles displays a vibrancy born of high, ripe acids… Citrus, lilac, and anise aromas lead to a luscious mouthful of melon liqueur, pineapple, grapefruit, honey, licorice and lilacs. It finishes expansive and long, with a billowing character, persistent, flattering florality, and no heaviness or heat. 94 pts.” — The Wine Advocate

Montlouis
“The tiny appellation of Montlouis has been home to one of the most amazing and exciting wine revivals of modern France.”– The Wine Advocate

2006 FRANCOIS CHIDAINE Montlouis “Clos Habert” $24 Clos Habert’s grapes, from 60+ year-old vines, are picked in two-four passes and yield a demi-sec cuvée. The wine is intensely mineral, rich and long. Aromas of white flowers with notes of quince and pear, and a marked minerality on the palate. Serve as an aperitif, or with sauced fish, white meats, foie gras, or goat cheese. Cellaring potential: 15-25 years.

2006 FRANCOIS CHIDAINE Montlouis “Les Tuffeaux” $23 This demi-sec wine comes from the entire Montlouis estate where two or three bunches are left on each vine after the first pass to make the dry wines. The remaining bunches are picked 1-3 weeks later. The average age of the vines here are 30-90 years old. This wine shows the classic minerality of Montlouis, but with much more viscosity and density than the drier wines. The nose shows pear and custard notes, while in the mouth it is very long and balanced. Enjoy as an aperitif or with hearty cheeses and pate.

NV FRANCOIS CHIDAINE Montlouis Brut “Methode Traditionelle” $19.99 100% Chenin Blanc from 20-50 year old vines. Sparkling wine with a nose of white flowers and citrus. Excellent minerality and length with nice richness. A remarkable sparkling!