The Long-Awaited Cru Riservas of the 2004 PRODUTTORI del BARBARESCO

The long-awaited 2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Riservas are here!  This much-heralded vintage is a benchmark for these wines as well as many wines from Barbaresco and Barolo.  The nine cru Riservas have not been bottled since the 2001 harvest - none were produced from 2002 or 2003.  In the meantime, the Produttori has been gaining acclaim of their own as a prime source for top-quality Nebbiolo and Barbaresco that represent exceptional value.

VINTAGES is proud of our long-time association with the Produttori del Barbaresco and its wine director Aldo Vacca. Through tastings, wine dinners, seminars and even the Nantucket Wine Festival, VINTAGES has offered many meaningful opportunities for our customers to experience and understand the great wine traditions of Piedmont and Barbaresco, and how a quality cooperative with nine top vineyard sites can offer some of the most age-worthy examples of these wines. The true beauty of the Produttori wines is that vineyard and vintage shine clearly through - the astounding achievements of nature and nebbiolo in a great vintage are never muddled by a heavy hand in the cellar.

VINTAGES is taking orders for these wines on a first-come, first-served basis. Following are reviews from the Wine Advocate. Many of you already have favorite Barbaresco vineyards that you collect for cellaring, and likely have a better appreciation of “your” cru than any wine reviewer possibly could. It’s an adventure for all!

Please note: VINTAGES quantity discounts will apply to these prices.

2004 PRODUTTORI del BARBARESCO “MONTEFICO” $68 - VINTAGES EXCLUSIVE!
“The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico is another of the larger-scaled wines in this lineup. It reveals a profile of ripe red fruits, spices and menthol wrapped into a seamless yet structured frame. This Barbaresco doesn’t quite have the level of profoundness of the finest wines in this vintage, but it comes awfully close. Shades of Bruno Giacosa’s 1971 Barbaresco Montefico linger on the long and immensely satisfying finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. 93 pts.” –WA

2004 PRODUTTORI del BARBARESCO “PAJE” $68 - VINTAGES Exclusive!
The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Paje achieves a remarkable marriage of elegance and power. It’s all here as this vibrant, pure Barbaresco engages the intellectual and pleasure-seeking senses with an endless array of dark cherries, menthol, licorice, spices and espresso. This wonderfully complete, full-bodied Barbaresco needs some time for the tannins to settle down, but it is truly a special wine in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. 94 pts.” –WA

2004 PRODUTTORI del BARBARESCO “ASILI” $68
“The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Asili conveys an impression of sheer luxuriousness as it coats the palate with waves of ripe fruit that nearly manage to cover the wine’s tannins. Generous and expansive on the palate, the wine reveals tons of depth and richness, with a long, satisfying finish. This remains a vibrant, pure Barbaresco in need of cellaring, yet readers who want to take this bottling out for a test drive won’t be disappointed, but beware, the wine shut down quickly in the glass. Simply put, this is sublime stuff. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024. 94 pts.” -WA

2004 PRODUTTORI del BARBARESCO “MOCCAGATTA” $68
The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Moccagatta suffers only by virtue of being placed among this group of phenomenal wines; most producers would be delighted to have this as their top Barbaresco. As is often the case, the Moccagatta is a relatively accessible, forward wine, but like the Rio Sordo, it has an unusual level of plumpness and inner sweetness that makes up for any complexity that may be missing. Sweet spices, plums, prunes and espresso are just some of the nuances to be found in this compelling wine. The Moccagatta should be one of the more accessible Riservas early on. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. 92 pts.” –WA

2004 PRODUTTORI del BARBARESCO “MONTESTEFANO” $68
“The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is one of the more reticent wines in this lineup of 2004 Riservas. Its vibrant, fresh color is followed by notes of violets, roses, black cherries, menthol, smoke and licorice. The wine possesses tons of structure and sheer muscle behind the fruit, suggesting this will be an especially long-lived Barbaresco. In recent vintages I haven’t been the biggest fan of the Montestefano, but this superb 2004 is impossible to resist. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. 93 pts.“-WA

2004 PRODUTTORI del BARBARESCO “OVELLO” $68
“The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is deep, dense and incredibly primary. Although the wine clearly possesses remarkable stuffing, there is very little tertiary development here. With air, suggestions of menthol, pine, spices and licorice gradually emerge, but this remains a wine in need of serious bottle age. Lingering notes of sweetness resonate on the long finish. This austere, but beautiful Barbaresco is destined to develop beautifully in bottle and should offer glorious drinking down the road. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. 93 pts.” -WA

2004 PRODUTTORI del BARBARESCO “PORA” $68
“The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is a dense, chewy offering loaded with ripe red cherries, licorice, tar and sweet wild herbs. The wine’s sheer concentration and power are impressive but today the tannins seem to lack the extra level of elegance that characterizes the best wines in this vintage. Despite its slightly rustic personality, this medium to full-bodied Barbaresco delivers plenty of drinking pleasure in an intense style. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. 91 pts.”

2004 PRODUTTORI del BARBARESCO “RIO SORDO” $68
“The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is one of the better versions of this wine I can remember. There is considerable depth and richness in the fruit here as this sweet, layered Barbaresco opens up in the glass. The typical spiced, floral Rio Sordo notes are amply present in the wine, but in 2004 there is an additional level of concentration and richness that has eluded previous vintages. This is a beautiful Rio Sordo from the Produttori. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. 92 pts.”-WA

We recently had an impulse to open up a bottle of 1995 Campagne de Centeilles made  by Patricia Boyer-Domergue of Minervois, a wine that was imported for us directly from her cellar by Ideal Wine.  As with many mature wines, it is good to check in with them from time to time to see how they are doing and if they have a long life ahead of them or need to be drunk up quickly. What we found was quite simply astonishing– a wine full of life and vitality, but with amazingly complex tertiary flavors and aromas that only come from significant bottle-age.

This bottling is made primarily from Cinsault and the balance is Syrah.  The color of the wine at this point is similar to the color of a traditional Barolo from Conterno or Mascarello –lighter garnet fading into brick. In the nose, the wine offers fine and complex aromas of baked cherries and plums, soy, bittersweet cocoa, beef bouillion, mint, and green tea, extremely seamless and fine in its aromatic complexity. On the palate, the wine is sublime; its silky texture washes over the palate with ethereal flavors of roasted cherry, grilled pit fruit, and amazingly powdery, bitter cocoa tannins. Wow!

1995 Campagne de Centeilles quite simply restores one’s faith in the beautiful and inspiring qualities that wine can bring to our lives, and, if you can fully appreciate everything that this wine has to offer, you will have arrived.

Introducing…
2005 CA’ del BAIO BARBARESCO
New England debut!

When Boston wine professionals need information about Italian wine, especially the Piedmont region, whom do they consult? VINTAGES’ own Eric Broege, of course. No wine merchant spends as much quality time in Piedmont as Eric, and no one has a more in-depth understanding of the region’s estates, winemakers and traditions. ONE of the many services VINTAGES provides is connecting deserving wineries in Italy’s Piedmont region with a suitable importer/distributor in our state. Sometimes an inquiry comes from a local importer who wants to add a new, quality Piedmont property to their portfolio. VINTAGES recommended a winery, the importer visited the estate and arranged to bring the wines from CA’ DEL BAIO into our state. These CA’ del BAIO selections represent tremendous value for cru-level Barbarescos. Our many travels to Piedmont have yielded yet another unheralded producer of quality wine that’s also an excellent value.

“Its great to see Ca’ del Baio and proprietor Giulio Grasso follow up their highly successful 2004s with this set of 2005 wines.” –Wine Advocate

2005 CA’ del BAIO Barbareco “Asili” Special price $48 (20% off a 12 btl case = $38.40/btl )
2005 Barbaresco from one of the most renowned vineyards in Piedmont. Tremendous value. “The estate’s 2005 Barbaresco Asili opens with a beguiling profile of dried roses, spices and raspberries. It possesses a compelling inner sweetness supported by finessed, silky-textured tannins. This bottling offers notable elegance and class, but then again, it is Asili. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. 93 pts.”–WA

2005 CA’ del BAIO Barbaresco “Marcarini” Special price $45 (20% off a 12 btl case = $36/btl )
“A large-scaled, generous Barbaresco, it possesses attractive dark fruit, menthol and spices with tons of plumpness and density. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019. 92 pts.”–WA

NEW ARRIVALS: PIEDMONT VALUES in Red & White from Rosenthal Wine Imports
These two small estates from Piedmont–LUIGI FERRANDO and DEFORVILLE– offer remarkable wines that represent the handcrafted, finely-made artisan traditions of the region; wines with real character and elegance.

2007 FERRANDO Canavese Rosso “La Torrazza” $19.99 Blend of nebbiolo and barbera. Fresh and lively red with generous berry fruit and welcome woodsy notes. Very much a red wine for spring; aromas of cherry blossom mingling with forest floor, bursting with fresh fruit and sweet fine tannins. A real find!

2007 DEFORVILLE Piemonte CHARDONNAY $17.99
Absolutely entrancing chardonnay; lovely nose, very elegant fruit flavors and silky texture; exquisite and delightful. Like a springtime bloom!

2004 DEFORVILLE BARBARESCO “Loreto” $39 ($33.15/btl case price) Superb value for a cru vineyard in Barbaresco –not to mention that 2004 is an outstanding vintage!
Since the mid-1800’s, the Deforville estate, run by the Anfosso family, has been growing nebbiolo in Barbaresco; they began bottling their own harvest in the 1940’s.
Loreto is a small, historic cru vineyard in the classic zone of Barbaresco under cultivation since 1000 A.D. The 2004 Deforville “Loreto” is made in the traditional manner, and offers classic flavors of truffle, porcini mushroom, consommé, savory and earthy notes, firm tannins and structure.

 Classic, age-worthy wines from a small, artisanal producer in a great vintage - what could be better?

“Naturally Complex”– I CLIVI

2004 I CLIVI Bianco Degli Arzillari Venezia Giulia $14.99
Out of the Friulian hinterlands of northeast Italy— more natural magic from the cellars of I CLIVI. Father and son Ferdinando and Mario Zanusso offer a new bottling of Verduzzo, an indigenous, native grape from 60-year-old vines in the Arzillari vineyard. Fully-ripened grapes from low-yield vines lend a depth and concentration to this unusual and compelling white wine. Organic cultivation in the vineyard and non-interventionist, artisanal winemaking ensure the absolute integrity of this hand-crafted, long-lasting wine. Among the flavors are fennel, dried apricot, hay, savory qualities. Aged on its lees, Arzillari Verduzzo has a deep golden color and wonderful texture–truly a white for red wine lovers — great texture, grip, and tannic structure.
Only 2000 bottles made. Rare, distinctive AND affordable– wine adventures and value, only at VINTAGES.

WINE TASTING: NEW ARRIVALS from Barbaresco, Friuli & Piedmont
Presented by ERIC BROEGE
Belmont: FRI. MAR. 20, 4:30-7pm
Concord: SAT. MAR. 21 12-6pm
Estates include: Ca’ de Baio, Ferrando, DeForville, & I Clivi (see above for wine info).

2004 I CLIVI Bianco Degli Arzillari Venezia Giulia $14.99
2007 DEFORVILLE Piemonte CHARDONNAY $17.99
2007 FERRANDO Canavese Rosso “La Torrazza” $19.99
2004 DEFORVILLE Barbaresco “Loreto” $39
2005 CA’ del BAIO Barbaresco “Asili” Special price $48
2005 CA’ del BAIO Barbaresco “Marcarini” Special price $45

NEW ARRIVALS: 2005 & 2003 BORDEAUX “Petit Estates”

One of the rewards of actively seeking out authentic, classic wines… is actually finding them. What is it all about? Check out these “petit bordeaux” that exemplify the very best of another era– or the best of our own?

2005 CHATEAU MOULIN de TRICOT Margaux $50

Château Moulin de Tricot is a tiny property established in the 19th c. where the art of winemaking has been lovingly transmitted from generation to generation. Bruno Rey is the current proprietor of the estate and, with the assistance of his wife and son, he cares for the vineyards, makes the wine; then bottles this extraordinary, rare gem.

The Rey family owns a mere 2 h of vineyards on a gravelly “croupe” (outcropping) in the commune of Arsac. The sandy gravel provides excellent drainage while the clay in the subsoil provides moisture to the vines deep roots. Moulin de Tricot stands virtually alone as it continues to follow the classic style of Margaux: utilizing Cabernet Sauvignon as the dominant grape variety. Cabernet accounts for 70% of the vineyards, Merlot the remaining 30%.  The spice and elegance of the Margaux appellation are expressed with precision at Tricot.  The impeccable balance of the Tricot wines is a constant, no matter the vintage, and the concentration and depth of the marvelous 2005 vintage give to this release a presence that is regal indeed.  There is plum and licorice with a background of cinnamon and clove playing a complex but subtle symphony.

2003 DOMAINE de JAUGARET St. Julien $72

The petite estate of Domaine de Jaugaret has been in the Fillastre family since 1654. Jean-François Fillastre is dedicated to preserving the traditions not only of Jaugaret but of the St. Julien appellation. Here is an estate where one finds neither pretense nor hubris, just the essence of the appellation.

DOMAINE Jaugaret comprises a mere 1.3 h of vineyards, made up almost exclusively of Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) with some Petit Verdot and Malbec to supplement this classic Medoc structure. The average age of the vines is over 50 years and some of the Malbec vineyards are in excess of 100 years old. The old vines of Jaugaret combined with the unfertile, gravelly soils leads to naturally low yields, providing M. Fillastre with a concentration virtually unequalled in the appellation. Deep, dark classic Cabernet fruit, notes of smoke and tar, satisfying chewy tannins. Fans of Medoc, St. Julien, Cabernet or just great red wine — don’t miss this!

WINEMAKER TASTING with PIEROPAN from VENETO, Italy
MON. MARCH 16, 4-6pm BELMONT STORE

The ancient walled commune of Soave is the home of the exalted PIEROPAN estate. The winery was founded by Leonildo Pieropan in 1890 and the family continues the tradition of excellent wines, including their single-vineyard Soave Classico wines, La Rocca, Calvarino. Fighting the tidal wave of high-volume jug wine, Pieropan has always embraced quality and shown the world just how great the wines of Soave can be.

2007 PIEROPAN Soave Classico $17.99

2005 PIEROPAN “La Rocca” $45

2006 PIEROPAN “Calvarino” $32

2004 PIEROPAN “Le Colombare” Recioto

2004 PIEROPAN “Ruberpan” $50

The visit will mark the premier of Ruberpan, which is the first red produced by the estate. It’s a blend of 60% Corvina with the balance being Corvinone, Rodinella, and Croatina from Valpolicella vineyards acquired by the estate.

2004 PRODUTTORI del BARBARESCO RISERVAS will be arriving soon! VINTAGES will have all nine crus: Montefico & Paje (exclusive); Asili, Moccagatta, Montestefano, Ovello, Pora, Rabaja (currently unavailable), & Rio Sordo.  CALL ERIC at 978-369-2545 to reserve.

NEW & EXCLUSIVE: YVES LECCIA wines from CORSICA
2007 YVES LECCIA Vin de Pays Rouge $28 (Corsica)
This blend of 80% Grenache 20% Nielluciu (Sangiovese) is imported by Kermit Lynch and exclusive in MA to VINTAGES.

2007 Cuvee YL “offers a pungent, generous nose of red raspberry and strawberry preserves mingled with rose petals, black tea, and fennel, leading to a rich mouthful of red fruits and flowers with fascinating fossil and marine nuances…”  -WA

The sappy, ripe fruit on a long, velvety finish. Lush, smooth, full, with intrigue and interest to burn! Amazing! Don’t miss this one!

Born into a wine growing family, Yves Leccia never questioned the choice of his future profession. After finishing his oenology degree, he took over the family wine business in the ’80s; he left in 2004 to create his own company. In 2005, Yves and his wife Sandrine created Domain le Croce with 15 h. of vines situated in the areas of Croce and Partinelone in PATRIMONIO. Natural and sustainable viticulture methods are used; grapes are hand-harvested. Vines average 20 years old.