"BEST IN SHOW" WINES -- Piedmont
CONTERNO BAROLO “MONFORTINO”2000 Yet another spectacular vintage from GIACOMO CONTERNO has just arrived at VINTAGES. Once again, uber-critic Robert M. Parker is left “speechless.”

VINTAGES is thrilled to offer the legendary Barolo Monfortino from the most respected winery in Piedmont, and one of the finest in the world: GIACOMO CONTERNO. Conterno’s reputation is unsurpassed in Italy, and it has earned its place in the top echelon of wineries in the world. “Cantina Conterno” began in 1908 when Giovanni Conterno started making wine. Three generations later, Roberto Conterno continues the estate’s uncompromising winemaking traditions and, incredibly, has pushed the bar even higher for outstanding, legacy-quality wines year after year. VINTAGES has been fortunate to develop a personal relationship with Roberto Conterno, and the privilege of securing a quantity of Giacomo Conterno Monfortino and Cascina Francia Barolos.

In March 2007, we were asked to host ROBERTO CONTERNO during his visit to Boston, and we arranged a spectacular wine dinner at No. 9 Park restaurant. In April and May 2007, Eric Broege visited with Roberto Conterno at the winery in Monforte d’Alba to taste the new releases, including 2000 Barolo Monfortino. Below are the just-released reviews from Robert Parker at The Wine Advocate – long, but justifiably so.

CONTERNO BAROLO MONFORTINO 2000 RISERVA $320 (1.5L $725) 97 pts. (Six bottle price= $288/btl. 12 bottle price=$272/btl. Compare to Zachy’s “futures” price of $375 net/bottle + NY sales tax) “Conterno’s 2000 Barolo Riserva Monfortino explodes from the glass with a luxurious, expansive personality that leaves me speechless. Endowed with generous ripe fruit, it is a seamless, seductive Monfortino that possesses incredible length as well as purity in a style that perfectly encapsulates the qualities of the vintage. With air, suggestions of roses, cocoa, tar and anise emerge to complete this magnificent expression of Barolo from Serralunga. Despite its seemingly approachable personality this wine has plenty of underlying structure. I suggest tasting the wine as soon as it appears on retail shelves as it is almost certain to shut down at some point in the near future. As for the magical question: When will the wine be ready? Looking at other warm vintages, the 1985 is peaking but has plenty of life ahead of it, and the 1990 is still an infant, so my best guess is that the 2000 will start drinking well around age 20, but personally I am not sure I will have the patience to wait that long. Low yields, a long fermentation time of 4-5 weeks with no temperature control and seven years of cask aging remain the rule for Monfortino. The string of Monfortinos spanning 1996 to 2001 (and possibly 2002) must surely be a record. I can’t think of another estate in the world that has produced six consecutive vintages of this profound quality. The 2000 Monfortino ranks slightly behind the 1999 and 2001, but that may be splitting hairs at this very high level. It is another stellar effort from Giacomo Conterno. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. This is another set of superb releases from Giacomo Conterno one of the bastions of traditionally made Barolos. While Conterno’s wines have often been profound, in recent vintages the estate has found another level of finesse that was sometimes missing in the wines. It is hard to say if that is because of a general trend towards warmer vintages, the estate’s focus on making just three wines, or small improvements in vineyard and cellar work, but the fact remains that over the past few vintages Roberto Conterno has produced the best and most consistently outstanding wines in his venerable firm’s long history. 97 points.” –Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

2003 GIACOMO CONTERNO BAROLO “Cascina Francia” $110 (1.5L $275) 94 pts. The 2003 Barolo Cascina Francia is a remarkable wine for the vintage. This deep, powerful Barolo reveals awesome richness and an almost liqueur-like quality to its fruit that is balanced by the chalky mineral notes that provide freshness on the finish and help convey an impression of notable balance. In 2003 there is no Monfortino, and the Cascina Francia surely benefits from the addition of that juice which is mostly felt in the wine’s depth. Resisting the temptation to harvest too early, Roberto Conterno waited until October 8 to start picking in his Cascina Francia vineyard, long after most producers had already brought the fruit in. He had the benefit of the late September rains that helped restore at least a little freshness to the fruit, and as a result his 2003 Cascina Francia doesn’t have the aggressive tannins that plague so many wines. Simply put, this is a stunning Barolo made all the more notable by the challenging conditions the vintage presented. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2023. This is another set of superb releases from Giacomo Conterno, one of the bastions of traditionally made Barolos. 94 pts.” –Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

2005 GIACOMO CONTERNO BARBERA d’ALBA $32 92 pts.  (SOLD OUT) “Conterno’s 2005 Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia is a terrific effort. Its silky aromas meld seamlessly onto the palate, where vibrant layers of dark fruit come to life. As it sits in the glass, licorice, tar, smoke and mineral notes become more prominent, adding further complexity to this irresistibly sensual wine. Long, sweet and pure, it continued to evolve beautifully over the day I followed it. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2015. 92 pts. “–Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

ALDO CONTERNO (Barolo) & ANGELO GAJA (Barbaresco)

2000 ALDO CONTERNO BAROLO RISERVA “GRAN BUSSIA” $275 93 pts. “The 2000 Barolo Riserva Granbussia is unquestionably a great effort. It presents a gorgeous, spiced nose followed by layers of sweet red fruit that open onto the palate with notable concentration and length, all while maintaining a restrained sense of balance for the vintage, with soft tannins that make it a highly attractive wine even at this young age. It should be at its finest between ages 8 and 20. Whereas the Riserva at many estates is the most powerful wine, at Aldo Conterno the Riserva is the most elegant. 93 pts.”—The Wine Advocate

2004 ANGELO GAJA BARBARESCO $205 93 pts.  (1.5L $435) “...emotionally moving and utterly profound.”—The Wine Advocate

The 2004 Barbaresco reveals fresh, perfumed aromatics that lead to layers of crushed flowers, spices and sweet raspberries. This is a wine of rare class, elegance and pure breed. It offers outstanding length and silky, elegant tannins to round out the inviting finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024. Angelo Gaja and long-time oenologist Guido Rivella produced some of the most monumental wines of their long, storied partnership in 2004. Although I admire Gaja’s wines, especially for their consistency, I rarely find them this emotionally moving and utterly profound. The stable weather and cool, tempering evenings towards the end of the growing season allowed Gaja and Rivella to harvest fairly late in 2004. I remember passing by Gaja’s Barbaresco vineyards in October of that year and seeing fruit still waiting to be picked long after most producers had already brought the fruit in. Gaja’s 2004s from Barbaresco are especially breathtaking for their clarity and precision. The wines also seem less internationally-styled than in the past. Readers fortunate enough to possess the means to acquire these wines won’t want to miss them!  93 pts.” –The Wine Advocate

TUSCANY
MONTEVERTINE Legend/ Iconoclast

“The finest 100% Sangiovese bottlings, including Flaccianello, Percarlo, Le Pergole Torte, and Cepparello are among the most successful wines in 2003.” –Wine Advocate

2003 MONTEVERTINE “LA PERGOLE TORTE” $100  92 pts. From the town of Radda, in the heart of Chianti hills, Montevertine uses 100% Sangiovese to make wines of power and purity. “The 2003 Le Pergole Torte is an atypically rich, powerful version of this wine but the higher altitude of the vines, which extend to 550 meters, have helped preserve some freshness. It offers a compelling array of black cherry, licorice, and mineral notes in a style that expresses the ripeness of the vintage, yet is balanced by a classic sense of structure. Still very intense today, it will require a few years in bottle to settle down and may ultimately merit a higher score. 92 pts.”

P I E D M O N T
While VINTAGES offers a very extensive selection of Italian regional wines, it’s no secret that we have a special affinity for the wines of northern Italy’s Piedmont region: noble age-worthy BAROLO and BARBARESCO (from the nebbiolo grape), BARBERA and DOLCETTO, reds made to enjoy in their youth; and GAVI, ARNEIS, CORTESE, and NASCHETTA are some of the obscure, but delicious white wines.

BAROLO: Where Nebbiolo is King

BAROLO, the most renowned appellation of Italy’s PIEDMONT region, is home to one of the world’s great wines. Barolo is legendary as a powerful, long-lived wine, one that traditionally was passed down to grandchildren. However, improved vineyard practices resulting in lower yields and richer fruit have made Barolo enjoyable earlier, while maintaining its unique character and aging potential. Like Barbareso, Barolo is made from 100% Nebbiolo, and along with Barbaresco, is considered to be the greatest expression of this noble grape. Barolo is characterized by captivating, complex aromas, richly nuanced fruit, gripping yet refined tannins, remarkable intensity, and exceptional aging potential. Barolo’s more complex and refined characteristics emerge over time, and most classic examples easily age for 40 years or more. (Photo: Ravera di Novello viewed from the Cogno estate)

2000 BROVIA BAROLO “CA’ MIA” THREE GLASSES AWARD $68

Brovia’s philosophy is to create Barolos with distinct personality, Barolos that faithfully reflect the richness of the great Langhe vineyards. Daughters Elena and Cristina have joined father Giacinto, and continue with a more traditional approach to winemaking. Eric Broege visited the estate in April and tasted through the cru bottlings. 2000 Barolo Ca’Mia, from the famed Serralunga vineyard, stood out with the strongest character. “Aromas of tar and earth. Deep, dark fruit, sappy with great grip; ripe and sweet tannins.” “The 2000 Barolo Ca Mia is from a vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba and the wine, predictably, is rich and powerful, penetrating and tarry on the nose and with abundant flavors of cherry and plum fruit, anisette, and dried flowers. Drink: 2005-2020.”—R. Parker

2000 AZELIA BAROLO “BRICCO FIASCO” $70
In the Castiglione Falletto area, Luigi Scavino and wife Lorella use a non-traditional blend of barrique and large casks to age their Barolos.  “Aged in 35% new barrique, the 2000 Bricco Fiasco has concentrated inky color, a vibrant nose with generous, persistent aromas of wild berries, plums and tobacco melding perfectly with the wood. A strikingly powerful but incredibly stylish palate shows perfectly balanced smoothness and acidity, and very long lingering aromas.”—Gambero Rosso

“The nose of this wine evokes crushed Nebbiolo with hints of fresh flowers and Indian spices. Full-bodied, with incredibly round, soft tannins. Long, velvety finish. Voluptuous. Azelia has come into its own. Serve this to the nonbelievers. Best after 2008. Highly Recommended.” –Wine Spectator                                                                     

2000 GIUSEPPE MASCARELLO BAROLO “MONPRIVATO” $75 In tasting with Mauro Mascarello in Italy last spring, we were impressed with the extremely fine and elegant quality of their Barolos. They represent the traditional style of Barolo, from the light garnet color to the fine-grained tannins and lovely aromatics. These Barolos evoke comparisons to Burgundy pinot noir in their refinement and elegance. “The 2000 Barolo Monprivato, from an historic vineyard solely owned by Mascarello, is powerful and focused on the nose, smoky, tarry, and floral, large in scale and depth, and with a lengthy, authoritative finish which brings out the ripeness and fullness of the fruit. Drink: 2005-2015.” –R. Parker
“Captivating aromas of red cherry, redcurrant, dried rose and flint. Juicy, tight and penetrating, with strong acids giving the flavors superb definition. Not particularly fleshy now but wonderfully aromatic and complex.”-- Stephen Tanzer

2001 ELVIO COGNO BAROLO “RAVERA” Three Glasses Award 2006 $75 Eric had the opportunity to taste with Walter Fissore at COGNO (cone-yo) in both spring and fall 2005. It’s very exciting to see Walter and his wife Nadia finally achieving recognition for their hard work in reviving the historic vineyards at Ravera di Novello. His newly renovated estate, perched on a crag overlooking the magnificent Ravera vineyards, offers a stunning 360 degree panorama. About his 2001 Barolo “Ravera,” winner of Gambero Rosso’s Three Glasses, Walter says: “Best wine I’ve made with respect to terroir and the tradition of Nebbiolo. Very few wines give such a great and memorable emotion.” (Photo: Walter Fissore of Cogno)

“A wine with a rich and decadent fruit structure and a spice, meat and cedar undertone. Full-bodied, velvety and long. It goes on and on. Best after 2008.” – Wine Spectator

2000 ODDERO BAROLO Rocche di Castiglione Falletto $59  Founded in 1878, the Oddero brothers run this sizable estate with 50+ hectares under vine across some of the finest vineyards in Barolo DOCG. “This estate, one of the biggest names in Langhe wine, triumphed again with a range of rich, complex wines of outstanding overall quality. The 2000 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is a concentrated garnet color with a complex nose of dried flowers, violet, tobacco and licorice. “This is very plummy with lots of tea and cedar character. Full-bodied, round and fresh, with silky tannins and a chocolaty finish. Delicious already. But give this some bottle age. Best after 2006. 360 cases made.”- Wine Spectator

1999 MARZIANO ABBONA BAROLO “PRESSENDA” $55 VINTAGES EXCLUSIVE  The family-run winery encompasses 27 hectares in Monforte, Novello and Barbaresco in addition to 25 hectares in Dogliani. Eric tasted the 1999 Barolo “Pressenda” with Mara and Chiara Abbona and was very impressed with its beautiful aromas, and elegant, lilting style. 1999 is considered a classic vintage that will reveal its nuanced complexity over time. “Impressive. Smoky and tarry on the nose, intense and penetrating, it is admirably rich, deep, and spicy on the palate. Drink now-2022”--R. Parker (photo: Marziano Abbona)

BARBARESCO: Age-Worthy and Expressive Nebbiolo
Nearly a century ago, a group of growers determined that wines made from the "Barbaresco" zone offered distinctive qualities and began to bottle them separately from Barolo. Barbaresco is both elegant and ageworthy, with softer tannins and a more ethereal quality similar to the great red Burgundies. The Produttori del Barbaresco, a large cooperative of growers who own most of the top vineyards in the Barbaresco zone, have the unique ability to produce a wide range of "cru" reserve wines. Produttori cru Barbarescos are made only in the best vintages, and are aged at least five years before release.

2000 BARBARESCO RISERVA “MONTESTEFANO” $50

At the end of September, we were in Barbaresco during harvest visiting friends and producers. Farmers were driving tractors full of their prized Nebbiolo grapes into the town center. Grapes from the Monstefano vineyard are distinctly different: small, dark purple berries, sweet and delicious, but with a high skin-to-pulp ratio that adds tannins and enhances the wine’s extreme aging potential of 20-40+ years. Tannins also mean that “Montestefano” needs time to reveal its distinctive personality. Deep, austere aromas of leather, tobacco, and truffle, wonderful complexity. A wine that rewards cellaring and a bit of patience. Absolutely, one of the finest examples of Nebbiolo in all of the Langhe. The Barolo of Barbaresco.

2000 BARBARESCO RISERVA “RABAJA” $50 Rabaja (Rah-bah-ya) is a magnificent vineyard that extends from the highest point in Barbaresco (311 meters) to a gully at the end of “Camp Gros” in Martinenga. Rabaja is one of the best-known and most celebrated vineyards in all of Piedmont. Rabaja shows elegant yet muscular character, displaying both finesse and breeding. Eminently cellarable, it is equally irresistible in its youth. Its principal virtue is supreme balance.  Great complexity and finesse in the nose, powerful fruit with firm tannins. Benchmark Barbaresco.

2000 BARBARESCO RISERVA “ASILI” $50

A vineyard of undeniable fascination, Asili lends Barbaresco a special finesse, elegance and charm. The color is never as intense as in neighboring Rabaja, but with time, Asili expresses its terroir with rare personality. Asili owes its fame to the Produttori del Barbaresco, which has released a selection since 1971. Barbaresco from Asili seems delicate and extremely fine, but its powdery, silky tannins are extremely long-lived. The combination of beauty and strength make Asili the quintessential Barbaresco.

2000 BARBARESCO RISERVA “MOCCAGATTA” $50 Situated in an amphitheatre surrounded by the Rabaja hilltop, Paje, and Ronchi, Moccagatta appears to have less than ideal exposure; however, it has the same elevation as Rabaja and is sheltered in a narrow, warm valley. Characterized by extreme elegance and intensity of fruit with floral and mint notes, Moccagatta is full-bodied, with refined tannins and a long, elegant finish.

2000 BARBARESCO RISERVA “RIO SORDO $50” Long-coveted by the Langhe’s best cellars, Rio Sordo is situated on the southwest-facing slope of a small ridge just below Rabaja and Pora. A combination of perfect altitude, exposure, and soil type create the ideal conditions for the nebbiolo grape. Beautifully balanced wine, with intense and spicy fruit, relatively soft tannins, and a very elegant finish. Classic Barbaresco.

2000 BARBARESCO RISERVA “OVELLO” $50 Ovello is on a hilltop overlooking the Tanaro River, located just northeast of the Barbaresco town center. At the top of the vineyard is Cantina del Pino, Renato Vacca’s cellar, with views of the landmark tower (“La Torre”), of the Produttori del Barbaresco, and Angelo Gaja’s cellar. Ovello produces a full-bodied Barbaresco characterized by fresh fruity flavors and firm, fine nebbiolo tannins.

2000 BARBARESCO RISERVA “PORA” $50 Very few producers own plots in this outstanding Barbaresco vineyard. The first “Pora” was produced by the Produttori del Barbaresco in 1967. They had identified the distinct character of this great vineyard and vinified it separately. Pora has magnificent exposure and borders “Asili.” Nebbiolo from Pora is aristocratically austere with supple fruit aromas and intense spicy notes, and relatively soft tannins in the finish.

DOGLIANI (dol-yahnee): Where Dolcetto is the Star
While Dolcetto is not in the same league as the noble Nebbiolo and the age-worthy Barolo and Barbaresco wines, it fills an important role as the “everyday” wine perfectly matched with the local cuisine. In much of Piedmont, Dolcetto is often tucked into less-favorable nooks and crannies of the vineyards, but in Dogliani, Dolcetto receives star treatment and all the tender loving care of the vigneron and winemaker. In recent years, winemakers have been pushing the envelope for Dolcetto and other grape varieties in this zone which has resulted in some very serious—and seriously luscious—wines.

2003 SAN FEREOLO DOLCETTO “VALDIBA” $9.99
Selected in the Boston Globe's original 50 Great Wines under $10 “Plonkapalooza” wine article. Fresh, juicy, cherry and blackberry fruit with a spicy, nutty character. Made by Nicoletta Bocca, a very skillful winemaker and determined champion of the potential of Dogliani Dolcetto. Photo: VINTAGES' Eric Broege with Nicoletta Bocca of San Fereolo

2003 CA’VIOLA DOLCETTO “BARTUROT” $35 VINTAGES EXCLUSIVE The top Dolcetto from the estate vineyards of Beppe Ca’Viola, considered the greatest producer of Dolcetto. Beppe is also one of the most renonwned oenologists of the region, consulting with several of the producers in Dogliani and throughout Piedmont. We visited the Ca'Viola winery last month and tasted their outstanding wines with Beppe's wife, Simonetta. 2003 BARTUROT shows deep purple-black color, leading into rich, deep berry flavors, with a hint of bitter almond on finish.

2001 CA'VIOLA "BRIC DU LUV" LANGHE ROSSO $60 VINTAGES EXCLUSIVE. A perennial “Three Glass” winner, “Bric du Luv” is made by famed oenologist Beppe Ca’Viola. “Bric du Luv,” a blend of 88% barbera and 12% pinot nero, is aromatic, juicy on the palate, and extraordinarily classy, a pure expression of Langhe fruit.

1999 MARZIANO ABBONA BAROLO “Pressenda” (Monforte d'Alba) $55  VINTAGES EXCLUSIVE VINTAGES Eric & Carolyn visited Marziano and his daughter Mara Abbona at their Dogliani winery last month. Their impressive 1999 BAROLO "Pressenda" is made from their vineyard holdings in Monforte d'Alba. We wrote: “Bella! Beautiful, elegant, lilting Nebbiolo!” Robert Parker writes: “Impressive. Smoky and tarry on the nose, intense and penetrating, it is admirably rich, deep, and spicy on the palate. Drink now-2022.”

(Photo: Eric Broege & Marziano Abbona)